![]() Watch manufacturers often label such models or entire series with the addition Grande Complication. Chances increase with the number of complications which is why many watches often contain several of them. However, one single complication usually is not enough for a watch to be qualified for the high league of Haute Horlogerie. But there are also acoustic complications such as repetition watches or astronomical complications such as the perpetual calendar. The most common and well-known types are time-keeping complications such as chronographs and chronometers. Hearing "Haute Horlogerie", one inevitably thinks of complications. Since these decorations cannot be seen externally – except when a watch has a skeleton dial or a view back – there are quality labels for luxury watches such as the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva) which guarantees the high quality of the movement and is commonly used by brands such as Cartier, Chopard or Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet, for example, is teaching its watchmakers the art of angling by hand. This specific training is also an important aspect for brands considered to be part of the Haute Horlogerie. These methods are highly complex and usually taught to watchmakers personally. In a certain lighting angle, the treated surface looks black after the procedure. It is mainly used on the tourbillon bridge. Black polish: This is the most sophisticated and time-consuming finishing technique.They became popular in Germany as "Glashütter ribbing" through Glashütte and A. Côtes de Genève: The "Geneva Stripes" are parallel broad and straight stripes on the plate of a movement.Perlage or circular-graining: Used in the final stages of production, this technique is an overlapping circular-grain finish that is applied to the bridges and plates of a watch.Angling also enhances the function of the movement. Manual angling: Angling, beveling or faceting is the process of working on the edges of the individual parts of a movement in a 45 degree angle in order to give it a decorative finish.Apart from engraving, there are several other special techniques: Last but not least, the brand’s past will be examined: Is the company’s history stored in archives or maintained through a Heritage collection ?Īs previously mentioned, the decoration of the movement is one of the most important elements when it comes to Haute Horlogerie. Furthermore, it is important for brands to be committed to innovation in the art of watchmaking. For all other parties, emphasis is put on an authentic, well-documented story that is unique to the brand. įor maisons, an ongoing history and the continuation of the founder’s philosophy play an important role. ![]() There are basically two fractions: On the one hand there are historical maisons such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin or Audemars Piguet on the other hand there are major watch brands such as Rolex, Omega and Breitling, luxury watch brands such as Bvlgari and Tiffany & Co and independent craftsmen such as Alain Silberstein. Quality features of an Haute Horlogerie company include aspects of tradition and authenticity, training and technical expertise, refinement as well as complications which will be further described below. The initial three founding members, Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux and the Richemont Group, have now grown into a group of 28 members dedicated to maintaining the art of Haute Horlogerie and to developing solutions to problems the watchmaking industry is facing. The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie was founded in 2005 to encourage the art of watchmaking and ensure high-quality standard of watches. However, there are also some conditions to be met by companies in the Haute Horlogerie. The regulations are not as strict as those for Haute Couture where the criteria a company must fulfil in order to use this term for advertising purposes is legally determined. Complications and complex decorations such as Côtes de Genève are often essential to the movements and require extensive experience and expertise when it comes to production. Unlike labels such as " Swiss Made" which stand for a similar quality, Haute Horlogerie furthermore strives for elegance and technical perfection. Haute Horlogerie in particular – or the „ high art of watchmaking “ – first was used in the 1970s to separate Swiss craftsmanship from the inexpensive Japanese quartz watches. Important to note is that the concepts mentioned above were invented to define new tendencies that stand out from the majority of mediocrity. Whether Haute Couture, Haute Cuisine or Haute Horlogerie – even less francophile might assume that a certain degree of grandeur, craftsmanship and performance is linked to these terms.
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